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(This list taken from www.awrm.org with some of my own additions/changes to suit our situation and locale.)
Rifle -
Should be semi-auto, but rule number one of a gun fight is: "Have a Gun." Should be of a common caliber e.g.. 7.62x39, .308win,
.223rem. Military surplus are also perfectly acceptable, but you should bear in mind that ammunition may well become scarce, and 8mm
and .303Brit should be well stocked if you opt for one of these calibers. Also, remember one of the great lessons learned by the south in
the War Between the States... 'Live off the land, resupply off the enemy'. I don't think our enemies will be shooting .300 WinMag.
Sidearm -
If you choose a secondary weapon, it should be of a major caliber. 9mm, .40S&W, or .45acp for semi-autos, and .38spl/.357mag for
revolvers are going to be the most common. Be sure to choose a reliable handgun with a well established reputation. A 1911, 92FS,
Glock, or Smith&Wesson would serve you well (as would many others).
Ammunition -
You should carry as much ammunition as you can comfortably bear. Obviously, weight will be a concern, and while .308win has more
punch than .223rem, you will not be able to carry as much of it. Most folks will carry about 200-300 rounds on their combat load. If you
opt for a sidearm, you should have at least 3-5 magazines (or speedloaders) for your sidearm in your 72 hour kit.
(On hand means not taken out and shot up unless it is being immediately replaced)
Weapons Cleaning Gear -
For obvious reasons. If you don't keep it clean, it ain't gonna work.
LBE /LBV -
(Load Bearing Equipment / Vest)
LBE/LBV is what you use to carry the stuff you can't do without. It is not your pack. Generally, it will consist of a belt with suspenders,
and you will attach your canteens, magazine pouches/ammo bandoliers, first aid pouch/kit, sidearm, etc. Most folks opt for the USGI
issued cartridge belt and H/Y Harness or the USGI load bearing vest. There are a multitude of different types of vests, harnesses, and the
like (too many to list here). Basically, you need something to carry the gear that you need to have immediately on hand and still keep
your hands free.
Pack -
You may well be on the move for a while, so you will need to have something to carry your equipment (that isn't on your LBE). Most folks
use the USGI A.L.I.C.E. (All Purpose Individual Carrying Equipment) pack or the new MOLLE pack. A "Real Tree" (or equivalent hunting
gear) daypack will work until you trade up.
Boots -
Be good to your feet and they'll be good to you. Uncle Sugar spends millions of dollars to figure out what boot is best (for the smallest
amount of money) for his soldiers. He knows full well that if his fighters feet are fubar (say that 3 times fast) they simply can't fight.
Having said that, any boot worn by our combat troops will be more than sufficient. Don't expect to last very long if you plan to fight in a
pair of sneakers. Go get a good pair of boots, and don't skimp.
Water -
Without it, you're dead in 3 days, it is that simple. You absolutely must have water purification tablets. Plus, you'll need something to
carry it in. USGI canteens can be had for less than $5 each, they hold 1 quart, and you can normally fit two canteen pouches on your
LBE along with all of your other gear (and they have a neat little pocket on the pouch made especially for the little water purification pill
bottle). Two quart canteens can also be carried or attached to your pack with Alice clips. There are also hydration packs available
(Camel Backs). These can be had in a variety of capacities. I have seen them available in sizes up to 72 ounces.
Shelter -
Tent/Sleeping bag. Some may opt to sleep under the stars and save the weight, but if you are in a harsh climate like the desert, a hooch
(tent) will keep you from getting baked (it can be used as a lean to during the day to provide shade) or in the north during the long cold
winters, a decent sleeping bag will keep you from getting frostbite or hypothermia. To conserve weight in your ruck, two men can share
a sleeping bag. Also, Mil-issue "pup tents" can be split between soldiers (each carries one shelter half w/ poles). These can be
purchased for about $25-$30.
Food -
You should have at least a 3 day supply in your 72 hour battle pack. MREs are expensive, but they will last a long time. Canned food is
cheaper, but it heavier than an MRE. Another option is Coast guard survival rations. A three day supply of food is about the size of one
MRE. They taste like a sugar cookie, and you need about a quart of water to wash down one ration, but they will keep you alive and well
nourished. You can save space by breaking open the MRE and tightly wrapping the contents into a smaller package. But, keep the
heavy plastic bag, it has a multitude of uses including as a dressing for a sucking chest wound.
Uniform -
Most militia folk (at least most of those in organized groups) wear some manner of uniform (also, its required by the Geneva
Conventions). Generally, they wear some manner of BDU (Battle Dress Uniform) with the pattern determined by their AO (Area of
Operations). This is not to say that you MUST use BDUs. Anything that you would wear to hunt in the field with would be perfect for
militia use. If you are in an urban environment, street clothes are the best cammo (though unlawful by the laws of war). The point is to
blend in using durable clothing that can stand up to extended wear, and is comfortable. For North Idaho, the best camo is that old
standby, woodland. Available at any surplus store or online outlet. Next would be Marine Digital Pattern (MarPat). The current Army
pattern, ACU (Advanced Combat Uniform), is supposed to work "in all environments". But, as the old adage goes, "camo that's made to
work everywhere, actually works nowhere", could have been coined for the new Army digital camo. It's too grey for desert wear and
way too light for the mountains of the northwestern united States.
Field Jacket & Liner -
The most common is the USGI M65 field jacket, it is available in woodland camo pattern. If you've got the cash, you may want to look at
the Gortex versions of the jackets. The M65 with the liner will keep you quite warm, the Gortex will do the same and keep you dry at the
same time.
Knife -
For Combat purposes this should be of the fixed blade variety, not a folder. A 5" blade seems to be the unspoken standard. The USMC
issued K-BAR fills this requirement and is relatively inexpensive.
Compass -
Preferably the lensetic, military style with some manner of luminous dial. Along with a compass you should have topographical maps of
your AO and surrounding areas. And a copy of the "Map Reading and Land Navigation" Army field manual.
Entrenching Tool -
An E-Tool, if you don't know is a shovel. They are available at any camping store or military surplus outlet.
Others have said, "If you buy from a military surplus store, opt for the more current tri-folder, versus the WWII style with the wooden
handle. The tri-folders are more durable and compact."
My feeling is, the tri-folds are more compact and have that nice handle for digging. However, the old style are sturdier and can be used
as a weapon (thrown, hacking). Study WWI trench warfare, the straight handled shovel is an indispensable backup weapon. But, like I
said, that's my opinion.
Flashlight -
Any size or style, just make sure that it has a second red colored lens to use at night in tactical situations (reading a map), under a
poncho, of course. (remember, even a red lens covered flashlight looks like a Christmas Tree in Night Vision Goggles).
First Aid Kit -
At a minimum, you should have a combat field dressing, in a small first aid / compass pouch attached to your suspenders on the left
shoulder. Also, you might consider a small first aid kit attached to your pistol belt or ruck. It should contain: Sterile Gauze pads,
antibiotic creme, a cravat, any over the counter pain medication, a suture kit, anything else you think you may need. Ready-made F/A kits
are available at most camping stores, and surplus shops.
Cold/Wet Weather Gear -
For the cold, you'll want to be sure you have some decent long johns to wear under your "uniform," along with a good pair of wool or
polypro socks to keep your feet warm and dry. For wet weather, you'll need a poncho, preferably two (one in your ruck, one under your
buttpack with a poncho liner) If you have the money, you may want to look at the Gortex parka and pant sets.
Hygiene Gear -
Ya gotta keep clean, otherwise you are going to come down with nasty diseases. Soap, razors, shaving creme, toothpaste, toothbrush,
etc. These are not optional things that are nice to have on hand, they are essential pieces of gear that you absolutely must have in order
to fulfill the mission. Helpful hint: Take a roll of TP, pull out the cardboard tube, then flatten and stuff into a ziplock sandwich bag.
Dispense by pulling tissue from the center of the roll.
Helmet -
Kevlar or steel pot, worth it's weight in Gold. Get one. (FYI... the kevlar helmet will better protect you noggin', but you can't use it as a
shaving/wash basin or cook pot).
Full disclosure: I carry a Vietnam era steel pot.
Additional Gear - (Get this stuff as your budget allows)
30 Day Food Supply -
Hopefully you will have a base of operations, because there is no way you are going to be able to carry a 30 day food supply on your
back. Same as the 3 day supply for your 72 hour kit, it should be nonperishable, nothing that requires refrigeration.
Ammo Cache -
1,000 rounds for your primary weapon. You should have as much as you can afford, and keep adding to it whenever your budget
permits. If you opt for a sidearm, you should keep plenty of ammo on hand for that, too. 200 rounds is a good start.
Binoculars -
Admit it, your eyes aren't as good as you think they are. You need a good set of Binos to be able to identify friendlies and enemies at a
distance. Stieners are probably the best you can get, but you can get a decent set of 10x50's from Wal-Mart or similar stores for less than
$60.
Body Armor -
Be it a USGI Flak Jacket, or a Level III Vest, body armor is worth its weight in gold for obvious reasons. (But, it's a trade off with weight)
GPS -
GPS (Global Positioning System) is a piece of electronic gear that uses satellites (at least three) to triangulate you position on the Earth.
Since it is electronic, it is not foolproof, and does not replace your compass and topo maps. But, if the satellite can tell you where you
are, remember, the people who run the satellite know where you are!
Water Filtration System -
If you are pulling your water from a river and not your kitchen spigot, you need some way to get all of the unknown nasties out of it.
Night Vision Equipment -
If you decide to buy night vision equipment, be it goggles, or rifle scopes, don't skimp. Be sure to get 3rd generation technology. 1st
generation plain ol' sucks, 2nd isn't much better, but 3rd generation actually works.
Spare Rifle/Pistol Parts -
The loudest sound on the battlefield is not a bomb going off or the belch of a machine-gun, but the unmistakable "click" of a hammer
dropping on a firing pin without the expected crack of the bullet breaking the sound barrier. You should know your weapon like the back
of your hand, and you should know it's weaknesses, and what parts are prone to failure, and have those parts on hand.
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